Category: Free Articles

How to design doll dress rosettes

To get started making a rosette, you will need to run a suture, sewing it so that it stitches to crisscross the length of the ribbon. Pull up until it starts to meets. After you bind the ends so that it materializes into a sphere, stitch the two ends together.

Note: The closer you sew your ends, the smaller your rosette will form and contrasting if you sew at a distance.

How to Gather your Ribbons
Gathered fabric is known as Shirr. If you intend to shirr ribbons, you will need to start by, using your hands, i.e. needle and thread and stitching a line along the edges of your ribbon and then pulling up to complete the process. You can also run a line of stitching at the center of your ribbon and then pull up the thread to bunch.

How to Shell your edges:
If you intend to add designs around the hems, sleeve edge and neck edges, you can use the shell methods. Instead of starting on the right side of your fabric, start on the opposite side and fold it onto the other side of the hem. At the folded section, stitch around three times pulling the needle so that it goes beneath the fabric. You should be on the right angle at this time, which you can continue by stitching back to the edges of your folded region. The shell design is completed once you pull your thread in tightly and re-stitch to create a tight fold. You can continue stitching until you have your desired pattern.

Doll rosettes and dresses are fun to make. If you haven’t already chosen your fabric to make your doll dress, skip this process. You cannot complete the process until you have designed your dress.

On the other hand, if you are ready to start making, yet another doll dress choose your fabric. You may enjoy mixing colors, patterns, etc, yet make sure that the fabric is put together coordinately. When you choose your pattern, it is wise to measure your doll first. You want to purchase fabric that will produce a dress, fitting to your dolls figure.

The size of the doll is the most important measurement you want to consider when choosing fabric. If you have a large doll, the smaller or medium patterns will work, providing you take the liberty to follow steps in stitching. When you choose your fabrics, also consider shoes, etc. The shoes designed for baby dolls, including the booties. If you have a reproductive doll, choose fashionable shoes. Once you select your shoes, pick socks that coordinate. You may also want to add a hat.

How to choose hats:
Hats include straw hats, bonnets, rush bonnets, hoop bonnets, and more. When choosing your hat work in coordination with your shoes, socks, fabric, etc. In addition to hats, you may want to consider belts for your doll.

How to choose belts:
Belts include the Red Sashes’, which are cotton belts that are a good match for Nahuala, Huipils, such as Todos Santos, etc. Multi-color belts include the stripes. Totonicapán belts are handlooms, which come in a variety of styles. Zunil is a hand crafted loom, which has many colorful bold designs, as well as figures.

In addition to hats, shoes, socks, belts, etc, you can also find matching purses, bags, jewelry, shawls, hammocks, bedspreads, and more. Matching furniture is also available, as well as dolls that mate with your own doll. Carrying clothes and toys are available online as well, which you may want to create a fancy station for your dolls platform.

How to Craft Quilts with Freezer Paper

No you are not going to craft a quilt with freezer paper, unless you know something I don’t, but you are going to use freezer paper to perform the steps in basic appliqué. The process is simple, and makes quilting easy.

How to freeze your paper:
Appliqué is the process of taking fabric pieces and sewing it onto prime fabric, which the shaped pieces are sewn onto a foundation to form patterns and designs. To start with, the steps in freezer paper cut your appliqué out and leave seam allowances. Next, use graph paper or similar products to trace on your wax-free paper, tracing the patterns of your appliqué. Do not trace seam allowances. Now, cut out your patterns and center the shapes on your paper so that it is on the left side. Place the pattern on to your waxy outside layer and bring it to the fabric. You will need to press (NOT IRON) your fabric, as well as the freezer paper. Press the paper so that it is on the fabric of your appliqué. The wax will melt. Once you see the results, cut the curvatures and the points of your appliqué. Use needle and thread that matches your design and run a stitch about the allowances of your seams. Slightly pull your thread to collect with the allowances about your appliqué shape. Make a knot in your thread at one end, and collect your stitches. With the freezer paper inside still, use your iron and press your appliqué.

You can also prepare to work the appliquéd style by using glue sticks. Ultimately, you can sew by hand to form the appliqué. In addition, you can use your machine to create a pattern of appliqué. It’s your choice.

To use the glue stick method, you perform the same actions, as you would in the freezer paper, only you use copier paper. You can use paper that you use in your printer to complete your steps also. Use your glue stick and fasten the seams. Leave out the wax coating and perform the same steps as you did in the freezer. On the backside of your paper, and at the middle, add a bit of glue. Press on the left side and turn your seam under. Around the shape of your paper, add another row of glue. Add the glue in a row down the shape of your edges. You want to glue the seam allowances to lock them in and to start you appliqué.

Once you complete the steps, you can start stitching the pieces of fabric into your backdrop fabric.

If you choose to hand stitch, start with arranging your appliqué, preparing it to fit the background. You will need pins to hold it in place, and use basting steps or else the glue stick to hold them in tact. Perform your actions moving front and then to the back, and appliqué the pieces that lie beneath the other. Overlap pieces should also be appliqué.

Next, get your needle and thread together, matching the thread with your initial appliqué. Stitch in a ladder motion, or else a tacking motion about the appliqué edges. Use glue to create ¾-inch appliqué shapes around the beginning tip, or point. You can complete your stitching, once you remove the glue.

In addition to the hand appliqué, you can also use the blind-stitch method, or the machine method to create your quilt. Another option is the zigzag method, or the fusible machine method. Various other methods are optional as well. To learn more about quilting visit your local library.

Now that you have created patterns to make your porcelain doll dress, you may want to add an apron to enhance her fashion. Aprons are relatively simple to make. You will need material, including 6 inches of light colored plain-woven fabrics (Batiste) to make your apron. You will also need lace, about 3/8 inches with narrowed edges. In addition, you will need white DMC thread made of poly-cotton, embroidery white thread, fabric glue and spray, embroidery DMC thread (pink and green; 818-pink; 524-green) and studs for your apron. (OOO-Studs)

Now that you have your items, you can begin making your apron. You can either procure lace or else design your own edges. In this instance, we are going to make up edges, such as the scallop and ruffles.

You will need craft paper and pencil to draw your apron pattern. Once you have the pattern drawn, cut it out. Use your stabilizer spray, at the bottom untreated edges, spray about 2 inches, and allow it to dry. Press your rigid fabric. Now, begin sewing a fabric edging, i.e. an ornamental undulate edge in your fabric. (Scallop) You want to sew along the bottom untreated edges. Next, sew parallel with the distance across your skirt. Leave ½ inch or 1 inch opening at the right side of your “foot presser.” Avoid sewing overly close to the untreated edges.

TIP: If you use a sewing machine, use your settings to form the scallop method.

Next, use your fabric glue and run it the length of the outside edges of your pattern. Allow the glue to dry and then cut excessive fabric using craft scissors to fit. Cut another 15 inches lengthwise of your fabric and another 4 inches widthwise. You are now ready to start stitching your ruffles. Sew your embroidery scallop on after you finish the untreated edges, stitching the edges so that it zigzags. You want to stitch the seams at the back to the dot and to the hem. Gather your stitches, running them in a line and at the crown. To create the edge of your apron, cut any unwanted length.

Apron making is created in a few methods, which include cutting out the “shoulder straps” and the waistline per outline or pattern. You want to crisscross when stitching along the thin edges of the lace. Continue stitching to the middle edges at the back and bring the right edges collectively to open the apron at the back middle. Now you can fold the lace, press and add a couple of lines while collecting the stitches near the edges of the crown of your kilt. Gather and pull up the fitted kilt, collecting it to meet the waist and compare the middle front as well as the notch. Make sure the gathered area is even. Stitch collectively and brush the seams whilst using the crisscross method to complete your task.

Next, trim the shoulder ruffles in a straight line along the pattern to sew fabric edges. (Scallop) Now take your stitches, gather, and run a few lines along the curvatures of the edge of your shoulder ruffles. Between the notches on your shoulder scrap, place your completed edges and even them out as you sew the seam lines and the trim. Now, fold the straps along the folded line. Press your pattern and turn it so that it falls beneath the untreated edges. Next, sew hidden stitches beneath the strap, preparing the seams of your ruffles. The shoulder straps can now go on the waistband, which should compare to the notches. Before you complete your task, compare the shoulder straps to your doll to make sure it fits, and then complete your stitching.

Now that you have started to create your bridal pillows, you will need to add leaves to join, assemble, and finish. To help you finish we have written the following directions.

How to create leaves:
Chain fourteen stitches into the single crochet at the third chain and away from your hook, single again working it into your chains and through to the previous chain. You will need to work three singles into the previous chain and continue back, working to the facing side. Once you reach your chain, single crochet it into the ends of your chains and turn before creating two chain stitches. Work the fresh chains into your back loops and single crochet into the middle single at the leaf baseline. Work three singles into the following stitch and single crochet into the stitches up until the preceding stitch. Omit the last stitch and recur your steps three times.

Next, create 24 smaller leaves. Chain fourteen stitches into your single crochet, and onto the third chain, away from your hook: Single crochet into the chains and continue to the preceding chain. Now, work the length of the back facing side of your chain and continue with a single crochet at the ends of your chain, turn, and create two more chains. Work the fresh chains into your back loops and work the single into the stitches you created, working toward the middle single at the leaf base. Add three singles and work to a fresh stitch, a single into the stitches and into the previous stitch. Omit the last stitch and continue three times, repeating your last steps.

Now you are ready to join. Start with the whipstitch, i.e. oversew your larger leaves you have dressed up and at the baseline work to your three-lobe leaves (Trefoil), working toward the corner. You will need to make trefoils for each of your finished squares. Now you will need to add your flower, rose, etc, design. Rest it on your creation in the center and add three-lobe leaves to the corners making sure that leaf at the center is pointing in the opposite direction of your leaves. You want to point four of your between leaves, pointing the tips so that they are in the direction of a clock’s hands, around your squares.

Once you join your parts use thread and connect it with a slipstitch. Work through the tips of your smaller leaves and chain four stitches, a slipstitch into the tops of your following larger leaf. Once you finish chain thirteen stitches, a slipstitch and work it into the second decorative loop. Work the second décor into the neighboring edge of your undulated fabric. (Scallop) Continue to the leaves and chain ten stitches into a slipstitch on the third loop, and the shorter larger leaf. Chain 10 stitches into slipstitch into your last loop and onto the identical undulated fabric. Stitch fifteen chains into a slipstitch. Work the stitch into the tip of your larger leaf and chain four stitches to a slipstitch at the small base of your leaf. Chain ten stitches into another slipstitch and work to the following loop onto the identical undulated fabric of the leaves. Chain ten into a slipstitch and at the tip of your smaller leaf. Finish by recurring, your steps about the finish and until the slipstitch at the beginning base of the chain. Complete the remaining squares.

Now you can assemble your bridal collection. You will need to connect the blocks of squares by joining your three-lobe leaves into the cloth. Finish with ½ inches seam. Next, cut your bridal collection at the front and at the back of your collection. Cut the strips that do not fit if applicable.

The guide to learning how to craft hanging baskets rests in your ability to learn, listen, hear, and think while you create your design. However, some people find it difficult to learn crafting rules; therefore, in this article I will do my best to make the steps as simple as possible. I’ve designed the May hanging basket for your convenience. In addition, I have chosen this particular craft, since it is one of the easier ones to make. I believe keeping it simple can help you to grow in craft, and assist you when you are ready to take on complex crafts.

Before you can make your hanging basket, you will need to gather your supplies, materials, and outlines of your craft. The article is geared to help those creating the May basket complete their project. Therefore, if you are not familiar with supplies, tools, materials, etc, you will need to locate articles to direct you through the first steps. For those of you, who have read previous works, continue to craft your hanging basket. Briefly, we can go over the previous steps, such as tracing the handles of your basket before moving to your blocks.

The next step after you have cut your strips is to trace the handles of your basket. To start use your print fabric (off-white) and cut out your rectangles. You will need six to create the A rectangle, which should measure out to 5 ½ x 8 ½ inches once you finish cutting. You will fold, mark, and create the ending of your pattern up to 200%. Now you are ready to make the blocks to build your basket.

How to create blocks for your basket:
Use your darker shades of brown print and cut six narrow pieces at 1 x 22 inches. You want to break off the cut pieces however so that it is equivalent to ½ inch. This is your narrow pieces (Strips) that make up #1-C in your blocks. You will need 1 ½ x 8 ½ inches to make the B-building blocks, cut eighteen narrow pieces (Strips) to finish. Use your lighter shades of brown to create your B-block. (Sounds like we are in prison or something) The blocks are customary in craft language. You will need five narrow pieces of fabric, cutting out 1 ½ x 22 inches each. This will make up your #2 C-narrow pieces. To create your H-Borders cut two narrow pieces of your lighter brown fabric at 2 ½ x 29 ½ inches. Now, cut 2 ½ x 28 ½ inches of narrow pieces. The cuts will finish your #1 border along the side. Start the narrow pieces in your C-block.

Begin stitching the C-block, using the darker browns, stitching six so that it meets with the lighter shades of brown in your #2 narrow pieces, which should be around five at this point. That is, you should have around five blocks of lighter browns created.

Gather your tools. You will need a transparent ruler and a rotary cutter. I should’ve mentioned the tools, materials, etc; that you would need in this article, yet again, the information is outlined to finish the May basket. Using your ruler measure 1 ½ inch expansive, or width and cut 12 narrow pieces to make your C block. Use the two narrow pieces (C) to three narrow B pieces and create six blocks to finish the bottom of your basket. Use the darker brown fabric and cut six narrow pieces on your creation. You should have cut 1 x 13 inches to craft the handles.

Use your narrow pieces you cut to create your basket and put them on your ironing board, level to the board. Your pieces should be on the left side, facing down. Fold the pieces at the longer ends so that it meets in the middle. You want to press the fabric. DO NOT IRON. Rather press your material so that it will not expand.

You want to mark the Rectangle A. use a craft pin to do so. Mark the area so that it meets with your handles that you traced earlier. Mark the interior side of your handles with a craft pin along the edges. Use coordinated thread to sew the handles and use your blind stitching mechanisms to complete your task. At the bottom of your basket, you want to accomplish stitching a handle to your block. You are now ready to make your flowers.

Doll dresses are fun to make. First, however you must learn the rules for beginners to make quality designs. To start you will need to consider fabric. Some people like multi-colored clothing, however the clothes must harmonize to deliver quality dresses.

To make sure that you accomplish quality doll dresses, you will need the right equipment and tools. You will need a sewing machine, cleansers, universal needles, including stretch needles, pins, olfaa panel, and a rotary or gyratory cutter. You will also need hand-sew needles, dressmaker scissors, sewing scissors, fabric glue and pen, greaseproof paper for tracing, pencil, measuring tape, lace, ribbons, fasteners, elastic, paper scissors, etc.

Before you get started, you will need to clean your sewing machine. Use “Dust Away,” to spray your machine near the bobbin region. You will also need to clean the bar where the needles are installed, as well as the “tension” discs at the top. Once you clear the machine of dust, use a drop of oil.

Now you are prepared to make doll dresses. Before I forget, make sure you have thread, specifically DMC broder if you intend to make French dresses.

How to trim:
You can use the pin tuck method to trim your doll dress. You will need twin needles, and a foot that is designed for pin tucking. Set up your machine. The right needle should be clockwise while the left counterclockwise. At the “tension” discs, you should have the left needle threaded on the same side, and the right needle threaded on the right thread. To keep your dresses fresh, you can use starch to spray your dress prior to pin tucking.

How to pin tuck skirts:
When pin tucking skirts make sure you leave some space.

How to pin tuck sleeves and/or bodice:
Take a square of your fabric and pin tuck it. You can cut out the upper section of the dress and/or sleeves after. Keep in mind when you start pin tucking for sleeves and bodice, the fabric size is modified, or reduced.

If you are not familiar with pin tucks, you can tuck your doll dress. To tuck you merely consider the size and width of your garment. To start you press down, pressing the folded center. Along the fold and edge of your fabric, stitch the width precisely. As long as you stay consistent within your stitching lines, you will do fine. You should always start sewing at the grain after pulling a single thread.

After you complete your dress, or near the finish, you may want to consider bows, tassels, smock, or hand sewn objects. Hand embroidering is ideally used in finishing. Use a range of DMC embroidery to make finish your dress.

Smocking is the added finishing whereas you use patterns to complete your dress. Silk ribbons, satin single and double ribbons make up a great pinafore, or back dressing.

Tassels are easy to make, yet you will, need crochet threads and/or embroidery thread to complete your mission. You will also need cardboard in which you will need to cut out a part a length longer than your tassel. Use your thread, wound it around the cut part, and continue until you have achieved the thickness you desire. At one end of the part, use the same thread and channel it through the thickness. Next, tie the thread so that it knots and at the opposite end of your part, cut. Do not cut your thread. Now you are ready to make your tassel.

To finish, at the knotted region, convey your thread so that it meets with your tassel. Next, wound another part of thread about the finish of your tassel a few times. Knot the area so that it is taut. At the finish of your tassel, skid the thread in to fasten your finished work. If the finish necessitate cutting to make sure it is constant, do so now.

Did you know that you could take old reddish-brown clay made of unglazed ceramics to make chimes? (Terra Cotta Pots)

The pots will make up a nice batch of chimes. To get started you will need up to ten ceramic pots. The diameter should be around 1 ¼ inch and up to 1 ¾ inches. You will need wood, 4 inches time’s six plates and varnish finish. You will need up to ten 5/8 inch grommet screws. Add up to ten rounds of beads made of wood and around 3/8 inches of spool, i.e. up to 30 pounds of anglers’ line. You will need wire up to 20 yardsticks, i.e. spools and a 7/8 inch grommet screw.

How to make chimes:
Now you are ready to make your chimes. On the wooden plates, add a coat of varnish, allow drying, and continuing a few times adding the varnish as needed. Use your grommet 5/8 screw, and screw it in by hand, screwing it into the plate. If you add, additional screws keep them an inch apart. Cut your line measuring lengthwise. Next, at each end feed the line through, and into the grommet screw. Work the line through until you reach the lower region of the vessel.

Once you finish the step, run another line measuring lengthwise through your beads of wood, and fasten so that it forms a dual bond. You can use adhesives to fasten the area if you feel the need to do so.

Take the other vessels you have available to create your chimes, threading them and regulate the measurement lengthwise as needed. You can now add the grommet 7/8 screws to hang your chimes. Fasten the screws at the middle of your crown plate. Use the wire outlined in this article to hang your chimes.

You are now finished with your chimes. To complete this article I will give you a few tips on crafting snakes to place beneath the lower areas of your door so that you can keep wind out during the cold months.

If you do not have a yard of fabric around your house, purchase a yard of strong textile weaves of fabric or corduroy. You will need thread that coordinates with your fabric. In addition, you will need stuffing, dry beans, and rice. Add some adhesives and felt, preferably red, white, and black.

Next, gather your fabric and trim up to 10 inches wide, and around 6-inches lengthwise. Measure your door before cutting, since you will need length wider than the bottom area of your door. Use two parts of the outer regions of your fabric, gather and hand or machine sew at least 3 sides and around 3/8 inches away from the edge of your fabric. You will need to leave a short region of your fabric available. On the right side of your fabric conceal your seams and add your filling, i.e. stuffing. Turn up your edges and then stitch them and choose additives to design your snake.

You can use glue, buttons, studs, etc to make your eyes if you choose to do so. As well, you can use your felt to make up the mouth, nose, and so on. Use the red felt to make the lips, tongue, etc, and the black to make up the surrounding features about the eyes, since as lids, or brows.

The snakes will make up a great warming gift also. You can craft a few to give to your friends, as well as keep a few around your home to keep it warm in the winter months.